Page Two

Scissors

Two pairs are needed, one for straight trimming and the other for thinning. Straight-edged barber scissors, with at least three-inch blades, should be snub-nosed for safety. Thinning scissors come in two types-single or double serrated. I prefer the former, as it cuts half as much hair. However, the Skipper "double duck" is excellent, having three-inch blades with 30 teeth on each blade. Carbon steel scissors are recommended rather than stainless, as they work better on dog hair and retain their sharpness far longer.

Nail Clippers

Guillotine nail clippers are best suited to the task-the Resco® clippers being most popular. A small metal nail file will also prove useful, between clippings and to soften edges immediately after clipping.

Stripping Knives

At least two stripping knives will be needed. One should be a coarse or medium knife having 12 to 18 teeth, for body work. A fine stripper with 20 to 30 teeth is necessary for working on areas which must be kept particularly short, like the head, ears and chest. MacKnyfe®, McClellan®,and Pearson®, make excellent knives in fine, medium and coarse grades.

Clippers

Although there are several varieties of hand clippers available-the type the barber uses for trimming-you will eventually want to invest in electric clippers manufactured by Oster. Model A2 is the older design, while Model A5 is a more recent innovation. Both are excellent machines. The principal difference is in the A5's "snap-in" blade feature. If a pet trim is desired, this is a must. Even with show trims, it will come in handy in dealing with the throat, ears and belly. Most dogs after enjoying their show careers will eventually be maintained by clipping instead of stripping the body coat. Two or three blades will be needed... a #8 or # 10 will handle body work most easily, while a #15 is used for areas to be kept shorter.

Miscellaneous Supplies

As you become more involved in the grooming process, several items will prove useful-actually necessary if you intend to show. Grooming chalk or powder comes in a variety of types; the choice is best left to individual taste. Cornstarch from the pantry shelf will suffice until you are familiar with other products. Working chalk or powder into the coat during the stripping process makes the hair easier to grasp. Baby oil can be used on tender, overworked arm to avert burning or drying out.

The waterless-rinseless type of shampoos are best suited to cleaning the dog in part, rather than giving a full bath, which is seldom necessary.

Add a spray bottle to your paraphernalia. Filled with water, it can be used in a variety of ways. Cotton swab sticks also are useful, as are tweezers. Various hair products, such as cream conditioners, are also likely to be found in the tack boxes of most exhibitors.

The Miniature Schnauzer Coat

The Miniature Schnauzer has a double coat: the hard, wiry outer coat and the soft, dense undercoat. The recognized colors are salt and pepper, solid black and black and silver. The same basic grooming is used for all three colors.

The more popular salt and pepper color is distinctive and unique to the breed. Although the overall color is gray, it is produced as a result of "banded" hair. Banding occurs when an individual hair has one color at the root which changes to a lighter color, and to dark again at the tip. A properly banded salt and pepper coat can only be achieved by stripping or plucking the hair. This is also the only way harsh texture and correct color can be maintained. If the coat is cut or clipped, the main body coloring becomes an overall slate gray, varying in tone from light to dark, with the true salt and pepper color being lost.

The Clipping Process

If your Miniature Schnauzer is solely a pet, the easiest and most straighten forward approach to keeping him looking smart and neat is by electric clipping. The clipping pattern followed is exactly the same as the "One Strip" method illustrated in Diagram A and B. This can be accomplished by an experienced groomer in less than an hour. Although Diagram B shows the dog stripped (or clipped) to the skin, this is not absolutely necessary. Using a # 8 or # 10 blade, and holding the clipper blade flat against the coat, move the clipper lightly with the lay or grain of the hair. You will see that some length of hair is left, and your dog is neither naked nor shaggy. How much hair is left will depend on the lightness of your touch. Most groomers find it easier to clip completely to the skin so that t to three-month intervals are possible between complete grooming sessions.

When using the clippers, it is best to start at the base of the skull. Holding the clipper blade flat against the skin, move it smoothly with the lay of the hair, working toward the tail. Following the pattern in Diagram B, clip the entire body as shown. You may clip against the grain when doing the cheeks, ears and throat, or may choose to use the finer # 15 blade on these areas. Before attempting any trimming, be sure the parts to be worked on are freshly bathed, as scissors should never be used on dirty hair. This can be just the legs, chest and face furnishings, or an all-over affair. After a wet down with warm water, use a spray with nozzle attachment to squirt a mild shampoo on each area. Lather and rinse thoroughly. Blot dry with towel, but leave enough moisture in the hair for the initial comb-out. Mats are more easily removed when the legs and beard are wet. This is an excellent time to attend to the toenails, as they are softer and easier to cut or file.

Before any trimming is done, the parts should be blown or brushed dry. Leg hair should be brushed in an upward direction; beard, eyebrows and chest fringe, downward. The trimming of these parts is done the same as described in the show trim which follows.

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